sabato 30 agosto 2008

the buzz

Clearly I'm in a reflective mood, otherwise I wouldn't be sitting in the South Delle (my dorm) computer room writing when my body is telling me to take a nap. I tried to write while I was home, but I really think my journey has come to a complete stop now that I'm back home in South Hadley (weird, right? Especially for such a New Yorker).

New York will be my home when I complete my undergrad educational journey. However, I'm closing my chapter on my jet-setting adventures.
I have taken a total of 18 flights this year. Word.

Between packing and unpacking all my crap (otherwise known as my life), I've gained a lot and thrown alot away (Erykah Badu says "pac lite"). I have a semi-knowledge of a foreign language. I've immersed myself in a foreign culture. Was it worth it?

My head has been spinning in a very good way these past few days. Returning to campus, I feel so much taller. Perhaps it was because I was forced to become a child in certain respects when I was in Europe--there were times when I literally could not speak. When I returned to an English speaking country for good (maybe?), I was like, "this is what I have to say, and I'm gonna say it however I want," (you know, with tact, of course).

Looking back, when people ask about Milan, sometimes I'm like "wait, I was in Italy?" It all went by so fast that I wonder if I'll actually be able to say that I was there. Part of the reason why I'm an American Studies major is because I feel so connected to where I'm from. "Returning" to Italy, if you will, wasn't quite how I imagined. I won't go into detail, but go to Italy for yourself and find out what it was like.

Here's what I did: I ate the best food in the world. I drank. I partied in clubs a lot. I struggled to learn the Italian language (we'll save witty banter in Italian for later. SIKE). My mouth watered over Louis Vuitton and Prada purses and Tods driving mocs. I rode in streetcars. I fell down the Alps. My breath was taken away by the Duomo in Milan (sorry, Florence). I felt the romance of having French windows in my room. I made some friends that I hope to have in my life until we die.

This is so mushy, and so unlike me. I had a wonderful time, but what's even better is that I have a little more of an idea of what it means to be American (charging just gum to your credit card and getting any type of food at any given hour. Clearly, these are the most important things about these United States).

My family might have come from Italy, and perhaps I have that fire inside me somewhere. But I do know from living so far away from home, from being so incredibly lost, is that I am American.

domenica 1 giugno 2008

whispers

Barcelona is really great--



...Remember when you were a kid summering on cape cod? And there were those HUGE dunes that lead down to the beach (what a hike, boy). Anyway, up the dune in the parking lot there'd usually be an ice cream truck with all kinds of post-lunch goodies. Am I ringing a bell? I should be.
Well, sometimes there'd be this guy who would run up and down the beach with a soft cooler filled with ice cream. Golly--that was grand, especially since you wouldn't have to walk up a huge dune to get your spongebob pop (I admit to never getting one of those. I'm more of a strawberry shortcake kind of gal, but for the sake of being REALLY nostalgic, let's go with the good old sponge, especially since he's really characteristic of childhood).
SO. You'd get your cold treat from the dude with the cooler. And he wasn't sketchy at all (this isnt sarcasm, I'm being serious--he was a nice guy). AND, get this! IN barcelona, they have the SAME guys. Only they offer you ice cold drinks (usually CERVEZA. Gotta get that afternoon drinking in), and (here's the kicker, folks), if you look like that kind of person, sometimes they'll offer to sell you drugs.

Now, imagine me, laying on the beach reading David Sedaris. Do I look like the kind of kid who wants to buy hash from you?
Right. And the polar ice caps are freezing.

Oh Barcelona, how colorful you are...Actually, it's a really great place. Kind of a mix of Milan and New York and Paris. Very wide streets (save for the gothic quarter), beautiful architecture (I SAW GAUDI! So incredible, even his Sagrada Familia Cathedral, which was actually borderline satanic and creepy...), and lots of people hanging out.
In other news, it's sushi sunday! We're going to go to this really cool place that has a restaurant inside a clothing store. I'm just happy for raw fish, I don't think I've had any for two weeks (that's a long time...)!

giovedì 29 maggio 2008

so much!

There's so much to say--I don't even know when the last time I wrote was. Oh yeah...I was still in Milan and telling you all what I'm supposed to do with my life for the next month.
WELL. I went to Rome and Tuscany and it was a blast. I met Ross' parents and ate really well. Rome was great, as usual--I got to see the Renoir exhibit there AAAAAAND went to the Vatican! It was beautiful, but I'm pretty sure if they broke it all down and sold it the Catholic Church would end word hunger for the rest of time. (I even think Jesus would prefer that ::cough::). But I drank Holy Water! Thank you Benedict (did you know he likes cats? Like, a lot).

Tuscany was really cool. We spent a few hours in Florence before driving out to this awesome hotel (it wasn't warm enough to go swimming in the pool, though...). Basically Ross and I were in the middle of nowhere for about 24 hours with his parents and their friends who are all the epitome of the midwest. It was cute. We went back to Milan to pick up his friend Erik, and it was nice to see Melissa before she left, and hang out with Courtney for a while (she has the CUTEST studio apartment because she works for Calvin Klein now). I was glad to be back in the familiar (and kind of can't wait to get back).

I went to London shortly after that on the 22nd with Erik and Ross. So great, and absolutely wonderful to be back in an English speaking country. I met some political figures that my best friend Ariana and her friend Jimmy have both befriended...I don't think it's best to write about it in public, but I had a really great time at an exclusive London club. If you ever want to hear about it, I can tell you have I have come to own a Gucci ring.
I did a lot in London-I visited the National Portrait Gallery, which was having a Vanity Fair exhibit (superb), the Tate (and bought a very expensive umbrella out of necessity) Modern, and the Victoria and Albert (SUCH a cool museum--its all about concept and design). I walked all around (very important, sight seeing is half of your trip), ate lots of ethnic food (helloooo indian and thai and chinese. CHINESE. Good chinese! What a foreign concept!), and went to some cool hangout spots. The last night in London I did the coolest thing. Ross had read on Kanye West's blog about this thing called the telectroscope that views Brooklyn and London. I contacted my parents and had them meet me at 7 pm their time, 12 am my time. There wasn't a line and it was raining when I got to the Telectroscope on my side (which is right by the tower bridge), I was able to see my mom and dad (with a whiteboard, asking me questions such as "how's the queen?" and "have any fish and chips? a pint?), the Brooklyn Bridge in the background. Completely amazing. I talked to my parents just a little bit before the credit on my phone ran out (damn pay as you go, what a crappy idea). Anyway, here's a link: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/21/arts/design/21tele.html?ex=1369108800&en=218d505864d14f2c&ei=5124&partner=facebook&exprod=facebook

The last afternoon in London Ross and I went to go see Sex and the City. That's right! I've seen it already! Go see it. I can't tell what your opinion would be, and I'm not going to say mine. But it was worth the $18 I paid (NINE POUNDS!).


Now we're in Barcelona. It looks a bit like Milan, only with a tropical twist and (undoubtedly) happier people. BUT SPANISH IS SO HARD! And let me tell you. Have you ever heard CATALAN? Barcelona, being in the Region of Cataluna, has its own dialect. And it's WEIRD. It's the craziest mix between spanish and french that you've EVER heard. But on the upside, It's so warm here (a change from chilly London), and the Mojitos are quite good. We went to the beach for several hours, and now we're going to go get something to eat. I can't wait to see Gaudi's works and do some window shopping.

I'm in a very strange place emotionally. I really want to go home, but I'm having such a good time and love visiting new places (next we go to Croatia where my friend Sid is, and she and I worked at Camp Takodah together for 3 years. I haven't seen her since 2006, so I'm really excited...camp songs here I come!). I feel like because I'm just traveling, I feel really displaced, and I'm starting to feel nostalgic about my program in Milan ending. It didn't hit me while I went to Rome and Tuscany, or while I was back in Milan for 36 hours. It hit me a bit while I was in London, but there was so much going on that I didn't really have time to register it. I wonder how I'll feel when I get back home to New York, if I'll feel more grounded (which is an emotion that most of you who know me have come to understand that that's usually how I prefer to be), and whether or not I'll like that.

Who knows what the future brings, because everything that's happened so far I've been unable to predict.

mercoledì 14 maggio 2008

updates

Here's my post-program traveling plans:

May 15-20: Rome and Tuscany
May 20-22: Milan
May 22-29: London
May 29-June 3: Barcelona
June 3-7: Croatia
June 7-11: Slovakia
June 11-15: Milan

There will be photos and links to my facebook albums. Here's a like to the most recent of photos from Berlin:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2039435&l=a21d3&id=10402388


I want to know how people are doing. Everyone. Please email me, send me a myspace message, or email me (paulu20t@mtholyoke.edu, or if you know the gmail one go for it). I feel so out of it these days--after studying for exams that I don't really care about, packing, running errands, and spending my last quality time with a lot of people, AND sitting around being overwhelmed--today I asked my roommate what happend in Myanmar and she was like "who are you?"
Well. An idiot, clearly. :] So if I didn't know about the huge cyclone that hit Myanmar, then I probably don't know how you are doing. I'm going to have a LOT of leisure time these next few weeks (and probably some good wi-fi), so please feel free to drop a line...

lunedì 12 maggio 2008

steve reich is really nostalgic music!

May is seriously the craziest, worst, best, hardest, and funnest month for college students.

I cannot deal. I gotta be out of my apartment by FRIDAY. More details to ensue once I finish finals (it's like an homage to high school).

All I wanna do is sit in Parco Sempione and eat GELATO all day. I haven't had a glass of wine since I can't remember. Relax? What's that?

domenica 4 maggio 2008

HEY random Italians on the street! That jacket looks REALLY fashionable, except last time I checked it was MAY?
But seriously, keep that coat on. You want a pair of gloves? I'd also suggest a hat. 73 degrees? BRR, motherfucker! That's coat weather. Even though you've probably been wearing that jacket since probably like, OCTOBER (I'm sorry, do you not own any other clothes?)

Well, just know that you're wearing Fendi or Gucci and at least you look really really good EVEN if you pass out on the pavement from the suffocation your (gorgeous, do I have to say it, really?) coat.

I kind of don't want to leave Milan, though. I've got two weeks left here before I start traveling around, and I was on the Navigli tonight and it was just buzzing. Totally alive--restaurants and gelato places open...there are so many eateries and aperitivo bars I want to try! Last night Ross, Amy, and I went to this place called Roialto (although not on the Navigli [the canals] and it was AWESOME. Seriously--you pay 7 or 8 euro for a drink and there are food stations EVERYWHERE--cheese, meats, pastas, seafood--I got a little sashimi and AN OYSTER. I almost got another one but the guy ran out RIGHT before me, so Ross gave me his. It was pure bliss. I can't wait to go back.

I may or may not be avoiding writing about Vincenzo Bellini IN Italian...

For your enjoyment:

http://xkcd.com/418/

sabato 3 maggio 2008

liguria

Yesterday IES took us to Cinque Terre. Dear God, what an amazing place. Beachside Italian villas along the coast of the mediterranean with really great food and cute little houses. Boats galore. And oh, did I metion the MEDITERRANEAN SEA?

We took a boat from La Spezia (not a part of the cinque terre) to Monterosso, the second most northern town. Sky, Ross, and I had lunch and it was really good (what else do you expect? I'm running out of adjectives to describe Italian cuisine. You should just come and see for yourself), I had spaghetti with seafood (again, if you know me...)

Then we hiked. We probably shouldn't have split the carafe of wine that we did (I think after that I would have preferred to lay on Monterosso's beach), but we worked it off.
The Cinque Terre is a national park, and you can hike from one town to another, although you have to pay. People live and farm on these trails--they're up in the mountains and they farm by having leveled rows of grape vines or olive trees or lemon trees--those are some of their specialties. Some people even were even selling lemons on the hike (which I heard were actually slightly sweet). However, I didn't think it was going to be as many steps as there were...thats what really took me out. Plus, I was wearing jeans (which is dumb because I OWN spandex AND shorts. Or you can wear a really comfortable summer dress...just wear comfy shoes...) They told us that it was going to be a hike, but I didn't think it was going to be so tough (although the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza I hear is the toughest--I wonder what the other trails are like!). The toughest part was getting up all the stairs to do the hike, but once we were up...man...
We arrived about an hour and a half later in Vernazza, where we got a well-deserved gelato and then sat on a rock in the Mediterranean off the small beach there. The water was cold (think Cape Cod temperatures in August), but if I had had my bathing suit and towel I SO would have jumped in (and for those of you who knew me when I was a child probably would have cried about not being able to swim).

It was really beautiful. If you're considering a trip to Italy and really like the outdoors, I would consider spending a few days in Cinque Terre--spending a night in each town, hiking from one to the other and a few hours in each town and on their beach. I think I'd definitely like to do that some day. A week in Cinque Terre....
Anyway, after falling asleep in the sun on a rock on the Med. sea, we had to take a train back to La Spezia to catch our bus and go home. It was seriously a fabulous trip, and I kind of regret not spending the night there with some friends. Oh well, another time:

http://www.cinqueterre.it/



Italy, sometimes I complain. But I love you.

lunedì 28 aprile 2008

this is my stop

Ok so I've figured it out. here's what Italy is like:

You want to get a book from your school library. So you go online, search, and request your books in a foreign language. You can't just go into and surf the stacks because they make people get your books FOR YOU (are you capable of doing it yourself? Are YOU up to the challenge of physically searching for your own books? Italy says no).

THEN, you're all set to go to Universita Cattolica but no map really tells you WHERE the library is. So you go to your academics advisor who doesn't know where it is and she has to CALL them to find out how you get there. It's still not on a map so she tells you the general direction. THEN you have to go to Cattolica and try and find the library, which is away from the two cloistered main sections, through several corridors and courtyards and clusters of buildings to find some building named after a (wait for it) Italian Saint.

THEREAFTER, you go to the building that its in and try and follow the signs to the library, passing a red door that seems REALLY inconspicuous. Following, you keep walking until you can't find it anymore and then you ask someone, in your botched Italian, where the fuck the stupid Art History library is (because its NOT in the general library, OH NEVER).
Of course they tell you it was the red door because its always the red door. No sign, no window in, no nothing. Thats how all their libraries are--there's no general set of stacks where most books are like NORMAL libraries. Everything's separated and they're all hidden in small halways and different buildings.

Whatever, you go there and tell the guy you've requested books and he FINALLY gives them to you, telling you that you have to bring one of them back within 6 hours but it doesn't matter anyway because of course its in a language that you barely skim the surface on when it comes to understanding.

This, ladies and gents, is the backward, most unhappy first world nation that I live in and somehow love. I have about a month left here. I can't even begin to tell you how I feel about it because I'm not really sure I know.

giovedì 24 aprile 2008

che cazzo fate, gli italiani?

So this morning I was heading to class and the metro wasn't functioning. Whatever, I walked and was late (usually I walk, but sometimes when I run late I take the metro because its a bit faster).
Later, I find out that someone had jumped in front of a moving train. Oh boy, what a way to go.

APPARENTLY, this is common in Milan (can anyone help me out? Does this happen frequently in New York? Do I live under a rock?).

I had heard a while ago that Italians are the most unhappy people on earth. Silvia told us yesterday in class that their population is decreasing because nobody's procreating ("my Davide--one child for everyone in Milan...!"). I wonder why this is--with all the prosciutto and more than decent wine you could want, why would you be so unhappy?

This country is really cool, but so goddammed backwards (and apparently, really really bogged down with Mafia problems, especially in the south), and its no wonder that they aren't cultural pioneers (I suppose their time died when the renaissance did?). My friend Ross says its because they're so complacent. I might have to agree, I went through a point in time during my life where I got everything I wanted and all I wanted to do was go to sleep and never wake up because I was so bored.


WELL. How uplifting a confession! Times have changed, though (I like waking up. Well, most mornings, anyway...). But hopefully times will change for Italy, too. Although I think their government has to change if that's gonna happen...

sabato 19 aprile 2008

this is our decision

Number one thing I miss about America right now?



...BACON.

That's it. I had breakfast today with Melissa and we decided on pancakes. We went to the grocery store and bought maple syrup and mix. And then there was the pancetta, the Italian cop-out version of bacon. Seriously, I-Ties, get on that.

Also, passover is tonight, isn't it? Le sad, because Matzoball soup sounds so good right now. I could really just waltz into a juniors and be so happy.

But that's the crazy thing, is that I really don't want to leave Italy now. Milan is ugly, I'll give you that. But I'm just starting to crack its gross shell (ITS LIKE AN OYSTER, GET IT) and am getting a really good taste (read: not of its gross "SUINO" pancetta. PIG? You call that PIG? I'll just stick to prosciutto, k thx) of what it has to offer--discovering the Brera district and having espresso and gelato sit breaks. This thing called "Zona Tortona" is going on right now; an interior design expo deal and there are lots of parties going on. I live on the corner of Via Tortona, all this stuff is happening around me. I keep walking on rugs made of some pasticky- esque shag fabric that are out all over the streets. People keeping passing us postcards telling us to come have free drinks all over the city.
Tonight we're supposedly going to a party in a huge traffic tunnel that they're blocking off. Who knows.

Striking discovery: Milan is actually pretty cool.

giovedì 17 aprile 2008

I shouldn't go, but I can't really help it when I feel this pressure

SO. Back in Milan!
Berlin was great. It's not a pretty city, kind of like Milan, only I found it closer to home. It's very big but spread out, so often times you don't see a lot of people walking around. I stayed with my friend Camille, whom I lived with my first year at Mount Holyoke. She has the most darling apartment, is really witty and sweet, and cooks great food (and when I ask her for recipes she rolls them right off like I'll remember them even a minute later and as if they're as easy as pie...which is not easy. I want those recipes, cam!).

I flew in on Friday night, got to her apartment after Fritz (her boyfriend) drove us home. I ate some really good lentil soup and crashed. On Saturday she took me to get my haircut, and THANK GOD because it really needed one. Funnily, the hairdresser spoken English, so cam didn't have to translate (she's fluent in German), which was sort of why I was going to get my haircut in Berlin. Then we went to a Vietnamese restaurant called Monsieur Wong-SO. GOOD. I can't even tell you what I had, but it was some chicken and salad type dish in coconut/peanut/curry/soup-sauce. WAHHHH. I wish Milan had cute ethnic restaurants!
After walking around and seeing the wall/one of the numerous holocaust memorials/parks and fountains and official buildings, cam and I went for a nap, and when we woke up we had Indian food. Oh, India! How I missed your gastronomical presence so! Or the westernized version of that, anyway...
Thereafter, we got ready to go out and went to her friend Greta's apartment, situated in a neighborhood kind of similar to the lower east side--Kreutzberg. We hung out there for a bit and went out to a club. While I wont' divulge many details because this thing is public and I may end up in public service, I will tell you that I did get the full Berlin experience, and that the motto of the club is "do what you want but stay in communication."
...Just kind of imagine one of those episodes of Alias where Sidney is undercover in Berlin and she goes to a club on some mission where they play hardcore techno for hours and everyone's wearing stuff that looks like its from the store Hot Topic. It wasn't quite the same, but there was a lot of techno and well, yeah. I don't know how we did it, but we stayed the club until 5 am and then went home, but ended up getting sidetracked by the search for food. We ended up at a Turkish takeout place at around 5:30, how yum. I was in bed by 6:45, slept until 2 pm the same day (those of you who know me know that I really never do this).

Sunday was a relaxing day, we went to a Biergarten to meet some new kids in Camille's program (she's been in Berlin for a year, some kids only came for spring semester). Although I hadn't had much to drink the night before (honest!), beer wasn't really tickling my fancy at 3 pm, so I had coffee (ANOTHER great thing about Berlin-DRIP COFFEE TO GO. Brilliant, Germany, just BRILLIANT. Dear Italy--can you get on that? Thanks). It was kind of awkward, to say the least. Much of what I said consisted of "hi. I don't live here. I don't speak German. Uh, my name's teddy and I'm friends with Camille..I live in Milan...but we go to school together at MHC...yeah..."
But there were waffles at the end of the tunnel, so it was worth it--we went to the cutest little cafe and sat around for a bit. I had caramel sauce on mine but it was so big I couldn't finish it, and to say the least...I kind of like Belgian waffles better. You all must go to Brussels and try them. They're worth that $700 round trip flight, I swear.

We ate at home that night, and to say the least Cam's LEFTOVER pasta sauce was one of the best sauces I've ever had in my life and I am jealous that I suck at cooking. I will never make a good wife in that aspect (you don't want to order in again, honey? well, I suppose I could TRY boiling some water...), aside from the fact that I maybe don't mind vacuuming.

Monday was a great day, too. I saw the Berlinischer Galerie where they had an exhibit on Emilio Vedova, an action painter that I've studied in my art history class here. We went back to Monsieur Wong for lunch and I had another kind of dish (their menu is really just based around daily specials because everything is so fresh) with beef in it. Spicy, again, but you know how I feel about that getting punched-in-the-nose -kind-of feeling (LOVESIT).
Camille had class after lunch, so I took myself to the Jewish History Museum of Berlin. Gripping, really. I felt a really big need to celebrate passover (when was it//is it? I am such a bad Jew!); I felt really disconnected with my Jewish culture (WON'T SOMEBODY GET ME A PICKLE AND A MATZOH BALL, PLEASE?!). If you ever end up in Berlin, you should really hit up this museum. I was physically affected by it in some ways, as well--there are moments where you have this crazy bodily experience throughout certain parts of the collection, architecture, and moments in time.

I went home after that, registered for classes and relaxed. My last night in Berlin I had dinner with Camille and Fritz, and Greta and Max (who are also dating, Max is Fritz's brother). I cooked, and it was decent. I had a 4 am flight the next day, followed by a full day of classes. Despite having been home in Milan for two days, I am still exhausted, which is why this entry will shortly be followed by naptime.

As soon as I post up photos from Berlin, I'll have a link in the blog. I'm just too tired (read: lazy) to do anything about it now.
ACK, I have a quiz tomorrow in Italian, does that mean I actually have to study tonight?
I hope not... (I may or may not be kidding in regards to my surprise at having to do work).

sabato 12 aprile 2008

Berlin is so amazing.
That's all for now. More to come later.

sabato 5 aprile 2008

wow, that was nice.

SO. Due for a huge update because apparently this thing is actually read by real, live people (thanks, folks). This entry is seriously long, kids. BTW MY AUNT IS GETTING MARRIED TODAY AND I LOVE HER AND MY FAMILY AND WISH I COULD BE THERE. YOU'RE ALL FABULOUS AND I MISS YOU. POST PHOTOS SOON.

Shortly after I arrived back in Milan from Paris, I was happy to be home, but less than 24 hours later was surprised by my roommates and taken to Nice, France.
People, if you haven't been to the French Riviera, I mean, you should just kill yourselves now.
Throughout the train ride (which was 5 hours, by the way. And we were only there for 36!) back I had seriously regretted not just jumping into the Mediterranean (which I WILL swim in by the time this trip is over, and I'd highly advise betting against it because you'd lose a lot of money) while I was in Nice; it's seriously one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. I want to go back and stay in a cute little town on the seaside.
Surprisingly, the beach in Nice is rocky, with huge, smoothed out stones comprising its shore. And Nice isn't very clean-cut, either. I actually really liked it--it reminded me of the Bronx/Coney Island (the French DO have white trash!) meets Cape Cod against the Mediterranean. Not quite as wealthy as Monte-Carlo (Which, my God, is quite a sight to see--THEIR train station is covered against the mountain because GOD FORBID the wealthy in Monaco be forced to see a train go through their city...), but still fun.
We stayed at one of the top ten hostels in Europe-- cheap, clean, kept up REALLY WELL, and friendly. Free breakfast--I ate this crazy cereal in the morning that was like frosted mini wheats with NUTELLA inside it: JESUS. America-TAKE NOTE!!!!! THIS CEREAL IS OFF THE CHAIN.
Anyway, we did a bunch of things--mostly walked around old town alot (really beautiful), drank copious amounts of wine (a premature celebration to my 21st), visited the Matisse Museum (he died in Nice), AND the Modern/Contemporary Art Museum, which has really a great collection (MoMA, watch out?). Apparently Andy Warhol's Diamond dust is there, which I kind of thought belonged to Mount Holyoke...hm. We did a bit of shopping too, but it was mostly Melissa and I following Courtney take charge in a department store. Always entertaining :] Overall, I had a nice (an appropriate word for the place!) time in Nice. Go visit.

When I returned to Milan, I met up with my beffy Ariana and her two friends, Jimmy, and Katie, with whom she studies at UCL in London. We had an awesome time, and it worked out really well because Jimmy and Katie needed to stay at my place and two of my roommates were out for a night. We went out to celebrate my 21st, and all three of them treated me like a princess for 24 hours. They got me free drinks (Katie has this amazing way of negotiating with just about anyone), bought me a cake, and took me out to dinner (Sushi--its not a Theadora birthday without raw fish, is it?) with Ross, Miriam (my Italian roommate), and Courtney. During the day we went to my favorite Gelato place and hung out inside the Castello Sforzesco (the biggest castle in all of Europe, btw). It was a beautiful day--Milan gets spring a bit earlier than the northeast. Trees are already blooming and its up in the late 60s daily. Sunny, too.
I've been on vacation for two straight weeks. Well, this entire trip has been like a vacation--I don't do work here because my grades here don't affect my GPA (study abroad is a joke). But don't get me wrong, when I get back to Mount Holyoke I will buckle down (as if its possible to strap myself in tighter there) so I can graduate with honors. This is my last time to give a big middle finger to the world, I don't think my life will ever be this carefree again. Or who knows. Maybe I'll feel the same way right before I have a kid (which isn't for at least another ::gulp:: 9 years).

ANYWAY, I realize that I haven't even mentioned what classes I'm taking here--an Art History course on Modern Art in Milan, which is pretty fantastic. I actually do work and care about this class, even though the work is easy. But I like the art and really enjoy the professor. My final is--get this--a 4 page paper. Are you Mohos not like, in stitches on the floor? Cause this is a huge joke (last semester some of my finals consisted of 20 page papers...)
Aside from Italian (which is great, especially because Silvia Francalanza, my prof, is bomb.com), I'm taking an Italian Language in Music class, in which we use Italian operas to help us understand Italian. Its kind of a frustrating class, but you know, its always fun to bop around to "Largo al Factotum" from Il Barbiere Di Siviglia. Goddamn, Rossini, you know how to write 'em.
The last class I'm taking is photography. I love it and hate it. My professor is a huge joke, and that makes me kind of sad. But I'm glad that I have to work hard on taking good photos and working them on the computer (cropping and making sure you've got the right contrast/shades/color saturation takes a bit of work). The class is just a waste of my time--me and my friend Sky sit in the back and roll our eyes (how can you take a professor seriously when he puts his bike up on the desk and starts talking about the metal on it for about 30 minutes? By that point I can't really care that much how your bike relates to photography).

Woo, okay. In other news I have great housing for next semester, the dorm I always wanted to live in since I was a first year. Its kind of far, but I know I'll have my good friends living there next year. Oh my god, I'm going to be a senior.
Okay, this post is over, I can't even think about my last year of college.

venerdì 4 aprile 2008

mama miaaaa

Carino Italy,

Your pizza is awesome.
Your beer, however, needs some work. Perhaps some lessons from Belgium would benefit you greatly.
Capisici? Bene.

Ti voglio bene,
Teddy.


Also, more to come about Nice and my birfday.

venerdì 28 marzo 2008

what're you, sioux? you're chippewa, aren'tcha?

I'm a firm believer that New York is seriously the best city in the world. I understand that my opinion is subjective and may one day land me in the hospital (read: angry hipster from Los Angeles or something?).

While many places have a hard time (in my mind) holding a candle to the big apple, Paris is SO BEAUTIFUL. Like it seriously never ends. You could walk for miles and miles and just not see anything ugly. Its so freaking refreshing, especially since Brooklyn heights will really only last you a half an hour walk, and then you're like, "damn. Am I really in the ghetto AGAIN?"

A funny video for you all cause it reminds me of home

http://www.nbc.com/Saturday_Night_Live/video/play.shtml?mea=55990

martedì 25 marzo 2008

okaaaayy

So this must be as good at time as any to post, right? It's been a really long time, things have been going by so fast. I know that all 3 of my readers (mom, dad, and maybe one other person--this blog gets a ton of traffic, I'm sure) have been chomping at the bit for me to post a new entry.
My excuses: I was sick for a while, was then excited when I got better, and then midterms came around. Couple weeks ago Courtney took me to Rome as a surprise. MY GOD. Rome is beautiful, and if you haven't been then I really legit feel sorry for you (can't you feel my sympathy? Essentially your life sucks if you haven't been).
It's such a simply beautiful city, and while touristy, it is so for a reason--there's no hype involved. I saw all the sights to see--the Coliseum, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps...I didn't visit the Vatican because there wasn't much time, but I think I'm going to go back after this program is over. We were there for a little over 24 hours, stayed at the CUTEST b+b ever, ate incredibly well (and were there on women's day, where I was both congratulated for being a woman and propositioned for sex several times. I declined). I even ate rabbit, and we paried in a club that was built into a hill so it kind of felt like a cave. Only really modernized and stoic.
Some photos in my most recent facebook album:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2037310&l=f6c01&id=10402388

Also, on a positive note, my Italian is coming along (I think?). Last weekend my friends Ross and Sky and I went to our friend Gabe's house, and we played some good old American beer pong, et cetera. We had to take a cab home because it was really late and the metro had stopped. Both Ross and Sky don't speak much Italian, so I chatted up the taxi driver. He told me I wasn't a very good speaker but that he could understand me really well. I guess I just need a few to open up and start talking, albeit like I'm 5. Whatever, it's better than nothing, right?

It's spring break now, and ma and pa came to Milano for a bit. I had to try and come up with things for them to do, but we ate really well and walked around--we even went to La Scala. I was reminded how much I really miss singing even more--I can't wait to get home and take voice lessons. I wonder how much singing I can do next semester, just shy of one-upping Melnia (I have no idea how you do Vocal Jazz on top of everything else, Mel!). The Orchestra and Choir performed Stravinsky's Symphony of Psalms, and then brought soloists out to do the Rossini Stabat Mater (I mean, FYI: in case you didn't know, Jesus and Mary suffered A LOT). We had shit seats but they cost us $5. I couldn't see a damn thing, but the acoustics blew. my. mind. I want to go back there and do the same thing to get tickets to see Verdi's Macbeth next month. Wheee! I've realized (or rather, my friend Ross' roommate Silvio [an armani model//designer] has helped me to realize) that Milan is a shy city. It doesn't shove much in your face for you to do, besides walk around and visit the duomo//last supper (which are NOT in the same place). On sunday we went to Varenna, a small town right on Lake Como, and took a boat ride to Belagio. It was a little chilly, but such a beautiful day. We walked around and went into shops, drank a lot of espresso and ate gelato. My favorite things.

Now we're in Paris, which unlike Milan, is IN YOUR FACE. I love it here--everything is aesthetically pleasing and we're staying in the cutest little apartment right across the street from Sant-Sulpice (read: flip out now because YES, it is the church in The Da Vinci Code, apparently). The metro in and of itself is a freaking work of art. I got here yesterday and went to the Louvre to meet up with friends. We didn't go inside, but I saw the cool Pyramide. We walked around and it was rainy and cold, and the Musee D'Orsay was closed, so I need to go back (AND to the Louvre, but art before 1800 isn't really my bag...). We ended up napping at the Hotel that my friend Ross is staying at with his brother (which is a strangely weird place. I must take pictures for all of you to see). Shortly thereafter we got some beers, went to the Eiffel Tower and stood around it (too long to go up, gotta wait for a warmer day...), and then went for dinner at a Thai restaurant (YES. SO good, Milan has TONS of ethnic food, and by TONS I mean absolutely none), which was wonderfully cheap. We got some drinks and then I went back to the apartment and crashed. Today we all went to this crazy exhibit at the Palais De Tokyo. I can't even explain it, but I felt like I was on drugs (which I was not). I think it was about an opera that transcends time and space, but also based around a dream workspace? Maybe you'll have to take drugs to understand it. At one point, they had people in a cage come out and play paintball. We also bought this candy that cost us 2 euro from a vending machine that tasted like nothing, in order to give you an illusion of taste. WORD, isn't that so deep? I dunno, you've gotta go see the thing for yourself, because I can't even fully tell you what it was about. Here's a link with some photos.
http://www.palaisdetokyo.com/fo3/low/programme/index.php?page=nav.inc.php&id_eve=1940&session=35

I'll have more up on facebook by the end of the week because they allowed us to take them (there were certain points where I was acting like a weirdo and lying on the floor and on my back, but I bet you they get some stranger people up in there doing things I can't even think of). Tomorrow my friend Lu comes and everyone who I'm here with (mom, dad and my friends-Stevie, Sky, Karl, and Ross) is going to Versailles. Maybe she and I will go as well, we'll see--there's so much to do! But I have til Saturday before we go back to Milan.

This upcoming Sunday Melissa and Courtney are going to take me to some undisclosed location (surprise no. 2) for the remainder of Spring break for my birthday. I'll let you all know where we head--and then Ariana comes to visit me for the big 21!


Time is rolling by so fast, kids, you don't even know.

martedì 18 marzo 2008

but you've never been a waste of my time

I'm always so surprised when I make it through the winter.

Springtime in Milan is gonna be bangin, and ma and pa come in a few short days (hurry, midterms!).

I cannot wait for Paris. Also, soon, I will update about Rome. Because it was awesome. 

giovedì 6 marzo 2008

io sto bene!

Ah, well, where were we? How long has it been since I've updated. I can't remember. Sorry for those of you who look to this as mild entertainment//a procrastination tool (there must be at least 2 of you, right? maybe?)

So the weekend of the 23-24 of last month I went to Montecampione with some kids from the program (actually, it was an IES sponsored trip), to go skiing. Oh goodness, many things! Embarrassingly, I had to stay on the bunny slope because the other courses were just too hard. I went down one and freaked out inside the entire time, and finally fell while rapping some three 6 mafia and got a sweet bruise. Even the bunny hill was really short but also kind of steep at certain points. We were about 3600 feet up in the air even at our resort, and the top of Montecampione was 5400 feet up in the air. There was a tiny little shack at the top of Montecampione (Bar 2000, what what!) that had candy, coffee, beer, panini--mostly bar food, but so good! Who can say that they've had a cappuccino at 1800M up in the sky? We skied friday and saturday, and on sunday lounged atop the mountain in beach chairs because it was SO warm (I'd say probably 60 degrees or so). I wore a cardigan and jeans, ate salamella and drank heineken for lunch. Sometimes I hardcore miss Mount Holyoke, but sometimes, man...I don't miss my carrell on the 6th floor of the stacks and leaving at 1 am and then wiping out on the ice. 

I proceeded to get really ill on tuesday after that (I'd had a really rough cold before that I caught from my roommate the week before) which came and hit me like a brick wall. I think I had bronchitis. I don't really know, I kind of just go to the doctor and they listen to my lungs and feel my nodes and give me a prescription. I was just on antibiotics and finished them yesterday. So we shall see! 

I'm trying to figure out trips--I've only been to Florence, Belgium, and Montecampione thus far. Plus Berlin tickets booked and two undisclosed places soon to be discovered. I've got Prague, Salzburg, London, Barcelona, and Croatia on my list. Perhaps the latter 3 will be visited after my program is over. Also, if there's anyone out there who wants to come visit me in Milan, please make your voices heard!  
Oh boy, oh boy! 

Also, photos were updated! 
go look! 

mercoledì 20 febbraio 2008

il piccolo principe

Sick as a dog! HOWEVER, I'm going skiing in the alps this weekend if it kills me.
As a result, I have sat around for days and watched tons of movies (hannibal and the lion king back to back? oh yes).

Today I picked up my Italian copy of The Little Prince (one of my favorite books) that I had purchased about a month ago and started reading it again. I understand so much more!

And for a while I was thinking this stay wasn't doing me any good...

Updating photos onto this blog is proving to be very difficult, so I'm just going to post links to my albums on facebook. Enjoy! 

http://mtholyoke.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2035049&l=7d267&id=10402388

http://mtholyoke.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2036136&l=42785&id=10402388



lunedì 11 febbraio 2008

Things are settling. I still worry daily about how much Italian I'm retaining, but I think its best if I don't pay attention and just try. 
This past week and a half or so have been such a whirlwind--and I start classes today at 3:30!
Last weekend I went to Brussels, and the weekend before that I went to Florence. Both weekends were really great.

I went to Florence with Courtney who knows the place quite well. We met up with one of my old friends, Noelle, and did a little walk of the city before heading to lunch at a crazily delicious Tuscan restaurant. We then went to go see the David, which was both incredible and comical (his hands are quite huge, and other things, well...not) and the Duomo. While Firenze's Duomo is beautiful, it doesn't carry the majestic quality that I feel when I am near the Duomo in Milan (I find this to be a good sign, because perhaps that means I'm falling in love with Milan?). After a nap, Courtney, Noelle, and I went to this restaurant called La Giostra. 
Oh my God. 
Words can't explain this food. If you are EVER in Firezne, YOU HAVE TO EAT THERE. 
Friends, I have never been so adamant about food in my life.
Okay, maybe that's a lie, but seriously, this food was probably the best I have ever had. Just google "La Giostra Firenze" and you'll get their website. Good? Good! (Except you have no idea how good until you eat their food...)
On Sunday I saw Ponte Vecchio and went to the Uffizi. It was great to finally see Botticelli's paintings after having done projects on them in high school. I had no idea just how magnificent they actually were. While I loved Florence, I was glad to finally get home after lots of traveling and walking around. However, it was more than worth it.

This past weekend I went to Brussels with my other roommate, Melissa, and a friend of her's, Michelle. Serendipitiously, a family friend was also going to be in Brussels that weekend, and I was fortunate enough to get to spend some time with her. It was wonderful, most especially, because she has spent a significant amount of time there and speaks french. She took us all around the city and got us some great eats. We spent our two days sightseeing (a shit ton, pardon my french. My shins STILL hurt from all the walking! And yes, mom, I can't go without one post without complaining...I mean, just because I'm in Europe doesn't mean I'm not Jewish anymore...) and eating. Let me break this down for those of you who don't know: Brussels is famous for a few things, namely Waffles, Chocolate, Beer, and French Fries. I mean, I've had some really good fries in the US, as well as some really good Chocolate and beer. But seriously, kids--there's more beer out there than I ever could have fathomed, and  the WAFFLES. OH GOD. I ate three while I was there. The last two were the best, but the first I was just eager to eat one. On Saturday morning I ate one covered in Nutella for breakfast, and then ate another on Saturday evening as a snack. That one was the best--I watched the guy make it in his truck. The sugar on the outside was slightly burnt, but then gave in and was really doughey on the inside. the french fries are also great, and they sometimes serve them with this sauce that they call Samurai-- its really spicy, kind of like getting kicked in the face.

Ah, the simple things in life. That was after we went to the Art Museum in Bruxelles--they had some really great ancient art, but mostly a lot of great Modern art. I saw some Seurat's, Dali's, and Magritte's. I felt so calm when in the Museum--it really made me miss the MET and the MoMA back at home, but now I'm on a mission to find a great museum that I can call my home here in Milan. 
Time for me to go--I have laundry to do, and the dishes are calling my name. Then it's off to my first classes! 

martedì 29 gennaio 2008

she says, "roo. tell me things!"

This one's for mattie!
Things are getting better here, although I have to tell you most of the Milanese have told me that Milan is the most "un-Italian" city in Italy. Go figure. It's growing on me. I still miss the Brooklyn Bridge (although the Duomo is battling it out for number one most beautiful piece of architecture ever in my life. We'll see who wins, I'll let you know), yelling at people who don't know where they're going, and matzoh ball soup. I miss 19th century and modern art, there's not that much here--a lot of artwork here dates to the middle ages. While I appreciate it, most of you know how I feel about anything pre-1700 (this, you know, excludes Shakespeare...). However, people have told me where I can find some more contemporary art in Milan, and I'm going to Florence this weekend with my roommate and we're going to see some amazing stuff there.

However, the food here is fantastic and I've eaten more prosciutto than I think I have in my entire life...oh, and the Gelato. Hollaaay! Apart from Herrel's in Northampton, you people are SERIOUSLY missing out (Nutella flavor, you ask? You got it! The cinnamon flavor really gets me jazzed, too).  Also, bars here provide food during happy hour, which is usually 6:30-9:30. All you have to do is pay 6 euro for a drink and it's free dinner. The next place I want to go is called Bhangrabar--they have an Indian aperitivo!!

Other things. I love my roommates. We're all from New York City, which is fantastic. While we're all so different (each from a different borough and socioeconomic background), we have a common thread between us (although I avoid talking about baseball with them...) One of them is absolutely hilarious. While she takes me out a lot and provides for the apartment quite a bit, I would be content to listen to her stories (like the time she sabotaged her grandfather's ex-girlfriend, Hazel Bebe, whom she hated because this woman had asked her grandfather out at her grandmother's funeral) for the rest of my life, more than anything else. I'm going to have rock hard abs when I get home from laughing so much--last night my roommates and I were up until 2:30 (I have class at 11:30 everyday so it's alright) talking and laughing. 
My other roommate is totally sweet and caring, we do a lot of errands together and talk. And she cleans alot. Which is great because she's never done a load of laundry in her life (thanks mom for forcing me when I was 12). She cleans the bathroom, I remove her stains...

I'm learning to get around. While I'm short on patience, I'm growing more and realizing that I'm not just going to wake up one day speaking Italian. However, I went to a bookstore this morning and was able to buy my textbook all by myself in my new, non-native tongue. GO ME. 

Also, I live in a great neighborhood, I really love it. I walked around it when I went food shopping today, and realized all the cute shops and restaurants we had just around the corner. Not to mention how close I live to the Navigli, which are these canals that Leonardo DaVinci built long ago that still exist (the water is so clear you can see the bottom!). Every last sunday of the month there's an antique fair--so many beautiful things! 

e troppo per allora, the internet here is worse than Robert Schumann's insanity so I must post while I have the time!

martedì 22 gennaio 2008

culture shock

blows.
Yesterday I went for an audition for the Civici Cori di Milano (the civic Choir of Milan), and was confronted with the unexpected. We were told that it was just a "community" choir, and most of us didn't expect much. I think it went badly and I'm not sure if I'm going to be in it. Hopefully tomorrow's (mandatory) culture shock seminar will help me with my frustration. Milan is great, but I'm hankering for New York like one craves a steak after being at Mount Holyoke for a while (vegetarians/vegans if any, try to understand my passion for a filet mignon?).

Don't get me wrong, I love Milan. It's beautiful. When I look at the Duomo, I think that maybe that's where my grandma went last week--it looks like pure heaven when I look up at it. Then I look down at the boots that some woman is wearing whilst standing next to me and I think, yep, "I've seen God--did you get those at Prada? Or are they from Zara?"
You can't really tell here in Milan, but everybody looks good (I can see my mother shaking her head because I'm only talking about clothing here--but I swear! There kind of culture that subsists in Milan is that of clothes, gastronomic pleasures, architecture, and churches. Your typical museum like the MoMA or the MET doesn't really exist here...).

Everyday I try to make my way around the city. It's hard. I pride myself on being a pushy, fast-paced New Yorker who knows everything. I feel like a bumbling idiot here sometimes, but I suppose its necessary to be humbled, isn't it? I struggle with the lanugage everyday and sometimes wish that nobody knew english so I'd really be forced to speak the language. When I get tired of trying I just say "do you speak english?" and Tada! Easy-peasy.
All my rommates are fluent--one is Italian and the other two are Americans. I am incredibly jealous of their mad linguistic skillz (yo).

However, I'm in intensive language class for 2 1/2 hours a day, and I'm regaining some of what I lost so far. My Italian teacher is fantastic, I saw her on the metro the other day and burst into a smile. I've made many friends and I'm having a lot of fun with them.
I promise that my next posts will reflect more positivity!

mercoledì 16 gennaio 2008

first post!

I'm finally settled in my first apartment! When I got to Italy, they took us to Stresa on Laggo Maggiore, about 10 miles south of Switzerland. We stayed in a four-star hotel called the Regina Palace Hotel that was incredibly baroque, but the food was good. It was weird being in this little resort town--it was foggy and almost desloate because it was off season--an amazing set for some creepy thriller. 
They took us out on the lake to some of the islands that are owned by the Borromeo family (still! One of their ancestors was a Pope!). We got off on one of them and there were all these cats around the island, which was weird because NO ONE was around--all the restaurants and snack bars were closed. It was like a plague had hit the island and no one was left.

Anyway, I've met some cool people already, and I'm going go hang out with some of them now that we're finally in Milan. I really like my apartment, and I promise to post pictures of it soon--I'm about a 10 minute train ride from the center of town, and I'm in a really funky, but clean neighborhood (think LES meets Chelsea meets Grammercy Park?) . I live with 3 other girls--one of whom is Italian, and two of whom are American but are completely fluent in the language. It's great, I'm hoping to pick up a lot. 

Things are good. More to come soon!